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As the leaves turn golden and the air gets crisp, many Michigan homeowners feel the itch to tidy up their yards. But before you grab those pruning shears and go full Edward Scissorhands on your trees and shrubs—hold up! Fall pruning is a bit of an art, and timing is everything.
Done right, it sets your landscape up for a healthy, beautiful spring. Done wrong? You could invite disease, stunt growth, or even damage your trees before winter hits.
Let’s break down the do’s and don’ts of fall pruning so your yard stays gorgeous and your trees stay strong.
DO Prune These in Fall
1. Dead, Damaged, or Diseased Wood
If it’s broken, brittle, or clearly infected—cut it out! Removing deadwood helps prevent pests and disease from overwintering in your trees.
2. Shrubs That Bloom in Summer or Fall
Some shrubs are perfectly fine to prune in the fall—hydrangeas (depending on the variety), butterfly bush, and potentilla are great examples.
These plants bloom on new wood, which means they produce flowers on the fresh growth that comes in spring. So trimming them back now won’t interfere with next year’s blooms. In fact, a little fall pruning can help shape them up and encourage stronger, healthier growth next season.
3. Overgrown Evergreens (Trim Lightly!)
If your yews or arborvitae are starting to look a little wild, a light trim in the fall is okay to help tidy things up. But be gentle—avoid heavy pruning and heavy cuts. Evergreens don’t bounce back as quickly in cold weather, and deep cuts can leave them vulnerable to winter damage.
4. Fruit Trees (Handle with Care!)
If you’ve got apple or pear trees, a little fall cleanup can go a long way. This is a great time to remove suckers and thin out crowded areas to improve air circulation. But don’t go overboard—major pruning and reshaping should wait until late winter or early spring, when the tree is dormant and better able to recover.
Not Sure What "Suckers" Are?
No, we're not talking about candy or gullible folks, we're talking about trees here!
Suckers are those fast-growing , skinny shoots that sprout from the base of the tree or along the trunk and branches. They might look like new growth, but they’re actually troublemakers. They’re bad news because they drain energy and steal nutrients from the main tree, without offering anything in return—no fruit, no healthy growth, just unnecessary stress.
By removing suckers in the fall, you help your tree focus its energy where it counts—on strong limbs, healthy roots, and future fruit. Plus, it improves air circulation and lowers the risk of disease. It’s a small step with a big impact!
DON’T Prune These in Fall
1. Spring Bloomers
Plants like lilacs, magnolias, dogwoods, and forsythia bloom on what’s called old wood—meaning they form their flower buds during the previous growing season. If you prune them in the fall, you’re essentially cutting off next year’s flower buds before they even get a chance to shine. Ouch! To keep your spring garden bursting with color, hold off on trimming these until right after they finish blooming in the spring.
2. Oaks and Maples
These trees are especially sensitive when it comes to timing. Oaks are vulnerable to a serious disease called oak wilt and maples can attract sap-feeding insects if pruned at the wrong time. These trees are more vulnerable this time of year, and pruning in the fall can leave open wounds that don’t heal quickly. This makes it easier for diseases and insects to take hold, increasing the risk of serious health issues. To keep them healthy, wait until mid-winter to prune—when insects are dormant and the risk of infection is much lower.
3. Newly Planted Trees
Just planted a tree this season? Give it time to settle in before reaching for the pruners. Young trees need all their energy to establish strong roots, and pruning too soon can stress them out and slow down that process. Unless you’re removing damaged or dead branches, it’s best to hold off on trimming until the tree has had a full growing season to get established.
4. Anything During a Freeze
If temperatures are dipping below freezing and fluctuating, put the shears down, it’s best to hold off on pruning most trees. Cold weather can slow down the healing, which means cuts stay open longer and are more likely to suffer from decay or damage, especially if the tree isn’t fully dormant yet. However, some species like oaks and maples benefit from pruning during the deep winter dormancy period, when pests are inactive and the tree is in full rest mode.
Pro Tips for Smart Fall Pruning
- Use clean, sharp tools. Dirty blades can spread disease from one plant to another. Before you begin, give your pruners a quick wipe with rubbing alcohol to keep things sanitary and safe.
- Cut at the right angle. Always make your cuts just above a bud or branch junction at a 45° angle. This encourages healthy growth and helps the plant heal faster.
- Don’t overdo it. As a general rule, avoid removing more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in a single season. Too much pruning can stress the tree and weaken its structure.
- Mulch after pruning. Once you’re done, add a fresh layer of mulch around the base. It helps insulate the roots, retain moisture, and gives your tree a cozy buffer against dropping temperatures.
Still Not Sure What to Prune? Call Safari Tree!
Our certified arborists know exactly what your trees and shrubs need to thrive through Michigan’s wild weather. Whether it’s a quick fall cleanup or a full health check, we’ve got your back—and your branches.
Schedule your fall tree inspection today and let’s keep your landscape looking sharp (without the pruning regrets)!
